The 10 End-of-Season Mistakes Boat Owners Keep Making

There is a dangerous moment in every North American boating season.

It typically happens after the last great cruise, when the marina has started emptying out, the evenings are getting chilly and somebody says, “Well, I guess that's it for another year.”

But there's a difference between finishing the boating season and finishing with the boat for the season.

Those weeks between your last few trips and proper winter storage matter.

North American winters are remarkably efficient at finding weaknesses in boats. Water freezes. Metal corrodes. Condensation forms. Batteries discharge. Rodents move in. Mould grows. Covers chafe. Snow accumulates. UV attacks anything you forgot to cover.

Winterization doesn't have to be complicated, but it should be comprehensive.

The biggest winterization mistake is assuming winterization is just an engine job.

Here's what boat owners most often forget:

Mistake #1: Treating Winterization as a Single-Day Job

Haul-out day should be the final chapter, not page one. Start 4-6 weeks ahead. Create a “last cruise” inspection list that covers:

• Engine and transmission

• Generator

• Batteries and charging system

• Freshwater and plumbing

• Bilge and pumps

• Through-hulls and seacocks

• Fuel system

• Electronics

• Safety equipment

• Canvas

• Sails and rigging

• Hatches, ports and deck hardware

  
  

Make a list of any and all concerns. Order parts now,  while they are still available. Get the jump on winterization with a couple of important in-water tasks: add fuel stabilizer to all fuel tanks, and allow the stabilized fuel to run through the engine. Perform an oil change while the boat is in-water and in running condition. This allows you to warm the engine oil, and make the job significantly easier. It also allows you to test/check your work to make sure everything was done right

Mistake #2: Forgetting the Fresh-Water System

The freshwater system is one of the easiest things to overlook because draining the tank gives you the comforting impression that you've completed the job. But that may not necessarily be the case. Water can remain in:

• Water heaters

• Pumps

• Filters

• Faucets

• Shower lines

• Low points in plumbing

• Head plumbing

• Shower sumps

• Ice makers

• Refrigeration systems

• Other water-using appliances

The tank may be empty while the plumbing system is still holding enough water to cause trouble. Follow the winterization procedures supplied by the boat and equipment manufacturers. Where antifreeze is specified, use the appropriate marine-grade antifreeze, and use it according to those instructions. The important thing is not to memorize a generic winterization recipe. It's to trace the water. If water can get there during the summer, figure out how it gets out before winter.

Mistake #3: Winterizing the Engine—and Forgetting Everything Attached to It

Depending on the boat, winterization may also involve:

• Cooling systems

• Raw-water intakes

• Seacocks

• Strainers

• Raw-water pumps and impellers

• Exhaust systems

• Fuel filters and water separators

• Transmission or drive

• Generator

• Air-conditioning seawater circuits

• Other seawater-cooled equipment

Outboards have their own winter-storage requirements, including attention to the lower unit. Inboards, sterndrives, gasoline engines and diesels all have different requirements. Don't assume the task applies to only what's under the cowling.

Mistake #4: Assuming “It's Dry” Means “It's Protected”

A boat can be dry when you leave it and still become damp over the winter. Warm afternoons followed by freezing nights mean temperature swings and temperature swings mean condensation.

Now add cushions, carpets, canvas, life jackets, bedding, and wet clothing sitting inside lockers. This is a recipe for mold and mildew. Before storage, make sure fabrics and cushions are thoroughly dry. Remove moisture-sensitive equipment and valuables. Open lockers where appropriate. Use desiccants or suitable dehumidification where appropriate for the storage environment.

Shrink-wrapped boats, in particular, need appropriate ventilation. A sealed plastic shell can keep the snow out while simultaneously keeping your October humidity inside.

Mistake #5: Ignoring the Bilge

The bilge is where boat owners go to practise denial. There's a little water down there. There was water down there last time. It's probably normal. Maybe. Before storage, clean the bilge and investigate what you're seeing. Check:

• Bilge pumps

• Float switches

• Pump hoses

• Discharge fittings

• Oil

• Coolant

• Fuel contamination

• Unexplained water

• Staining or residue

If water is present, don't just pump it out. Ask why. A clean bilge has another advantage: it establishes a baseline. When you open the boat in spring, any new water is much easier to spot.

Mistake #6: Leaving the Batteries Until Spring

Modern boats may have numerous small electrical loads—memory circuits, alarms, electronics, monitoring systems, and other devices—that can slowly discharge batteries during storage. Cold temperatures also affect battery performance. Inspect the batteries, clean terminals as appropriate, and follow the battery manufacturer's storage and charging recommendations.

Mistake #7: Sailboats Have Their Own Special Collection of Things to Forget

Start with the sails. Clean them as appropriate, dry them thoroughly and store them properly. Wash and dry lines. Inspect running rigging. Look over standing rigging, including:

• Terminals

• Turnbuckles

• Chainplates

• Furler components

• Wire

• Fittings

• Areas showing corrosion or chafe

Inspect winches and associated hardware. If the mast is coming down, you have an excellent opportunity to inspect fittings that are otherwise several metres above your head. If the rig remains stepped, inspect it carefully and make sure the winter cover and storage arrangement aren't creating new chafe points. Winter is also the perfect time to find problems that are difficult to see during the season.

Mistake #8: Leaving Safety Gear for “Next Spring”

Inventory it now. Make sure the following items are in proper order:

• Flares and other pyrotechnics

• Fire extinguishers

• PFDs

• Inflatable PFD cartridges

• First-aid supplies

• EPIRB/PLB batteries, where applicable

• Emergency signaling equipment

• Bilge pumps

• Navigation lights

• Smoke and CO detectors

You don't have to replace everything immediately. But make the list now. That gives you months to source replacements rather than discovering the problem during spring commissioning.

Mistake #9: Forgetting the Boat's Exterior

Before covering the boat, wash it. Then rinse it. Then inspect it. Remove salt, dirt, algae and whatever else accumulated during the season. Pay particular attention to:

• Hull and deck

• Through-hulls

• Seacocks

• Hatches

• Ports

• Seals

• Deck hardware

• Fasteners

• Sealant

• Corrosion

• Cracks

• Leaks

If you have a failed seal, leaking port, or cracked fitting, fix it before you cover the boat.

Mistake #10: Thinking the Winter Cover Is Winterization

A cover is a cover. It isn't a magical winterization blanket. Its job is to keep weather out. It doesn't drain your plumbing, protect your batteries, stabilize your fuel or stop condensation. Whether you're using a conventional winter cover or shrink wrap, consider:

• Proper support

• Water and snow shedding

• Ventilation

• Tie-downs

• Chafe

• Access

• Wind loading

Avoid flat areas where snow and water can collect. Check that straps aren't rubbing against gelcoat, rails, or hardware. Shrink wrap should have appropriate support beneath it and adequate ventilation. If you need access during the winter, install an appropriate access door rather than creating a hole with a knife and trusting duct tape to save the day.

A Better North American Winterization Timeline

The reality is, if you boat in the vast majority of North America (save for a couple coastal states), you should planning four to six weeks before haul-out.

• Identify repairs

• Order parts

• Check batteries

• Inventory safety equipment.

• Make arrangements for yard work

• Note anything that needs professional attention

• Oil change

During the last few outings, use the boat as a diagnostic tool.

• Run systems.

• Listen for unusual noises.

• Check for leaks.

• Operate pumps.

• Exercise seacocks.

• Test electronics.

• Photograph anything requiring attention.

• Stabilize fuel and replace water-separating fuel filter

Then comes haul-out day. Now you can concentrate on the actual storage procedure.

• Wash and rinse.

• Complete appropriate engine/drive winterization.

• Drain or protect water systems.

• Inspect hull and running gear.

• Inspect through-hulls and seacocks.

• Clean and dry the bilge.

  
  

Before final departure, be sure to do a final walk through of the entire boat.

• Batteries

• Plumbing

• Bilge

• Interior

• Sails and rigging

• Canvas

• Safety equipment

• Cover

• Tie-downs

• Security

• Ventilation

• Winterize the engine

• Shrink-wrap and/or cover

Make time for a mid-winter check-in.

If practical, inspect the boat periodically. Look for:

• Cover damage

• Snow or ice accumulation

• Water intrusion

• Moisture

• Pest activity

• Wind damage

• Chafe

• Changes in supports or tie-downs

A winter inspection can turn a spring disaster into a small winter repair.

Your Spring Self Is Going to Be Very Grateful

Nobody likes winterizing. But proper winter storage isn't about making the boat look tidy before the snow arrives. It's about preventing a series of small problems from becoming large ones. Give yourself the advantage of time. Start early. Make a list. Run the systems. Look carefully. Fix the little stuff. Follow the manufacturer's procedures for the equipment that matters.

Your spring self will thank you. #tips